Transit
Car-free family trip idea: Harpers Ferry
If you have young children, and don't own a car, you know what a pain weekend trips can be. For a relatively painless alternative, Harpers Ferry fits the bill. In the foothills, just a short train ride from Washington, Harpers Ferry offers plenty for the whole family.
My wife and I have taken our 2-year-old to Harpers Ferry twice without a car, and we all had a blast. It's easily done without the hassle or expense of renting a car. All the locations mentioned below are on this Google Map.
Getting there: The Harpers Ferry train station is right in the middle of downtown, and everything is walkable from the station. The Amtrak Capitol Limited stops here once per day each way 7 days per week, and the MARC Brunswick line stops here multiple times each way on weekdays only.
It's faster than driving If you need to leave later in the day, the MARC train leaves Union Station at 4:55, 5:40, and 7:15pm. It costs less too, but isn't as fun.
Where to stay: You have two choices for accommodations with kids that don't require a car, the Town's Inn and the KOA Campground. We've stayed in both, and which one you stay in depends on whether you plan to spend most of your trip in town or at the campground.
The Town's Inn is the only hotel in downtown Harpers Ferry. You can walk there from the train station in 2 minutes. Best of all, it's in the middle of everything you will want to do.
The KOA Campground is a mile from the train station. You can either walk there or take a National Park Service bus. The walk is a pleasant one through Harpers Ferry and the next-door town of Bolivar, except for one crossing of a 6-lane expressway at an intersection with no walk signal. Most of the walk is part of the Appalachian Trail, so you'll see hikers. I walked to the campground, with my supplies in a big backpack and my little guy in a stroller.
What to do downtown: There are basically 2 fun things for kids to do downtown. They can play in the Shenandoah River, and watch NPS reenactments of 19th century Harpers Ferry. Both are within a 5 minute walk. And pedestrians essentially rule the road, as there are few cars in downtown, so you can feel safe with your kids running around free.
Keep in mind that the downtown restaurants don't currently serve breakfast, as they make most of their money off of day trippers. Fortunately, the Town's Inn sells breakfast food and has refrigerators and microwaves. Also, the Country Cafe serves a fantastic breakfast, and is a 2/3 mile walk from downtown and 3 blocks from the fabulous Bolivar Public Playground.
What to do at the KOA campground: The Harpers Ferry KOA is a kids' paradise. A regular pool and kiddie pool, super pillow for jumping, playground, arcade and mini-golf make the day fly by. For the parents, a coffee shop and wine store has daily wine tastings on the campground. Anytime you want to go back into town, the NPS bus stop at the Visitors' Center is a 10 minute walk away.
Getting back: The only real challenge to visiting Harpers Ferry without a car is taking the Amtrak train back to DC. The train is supposed to stop in Harper's Ferry 7 days per week at 10:55am, stopping next at Rockville at 11:40am and Union Station at 12:40pm. But it's always late The Amtrak trip to Harpers Ferry is generally on time, because the Capitol Limited route is beginning its Union Station to Chicago journey. Coming back to DC, though, it can have been delayed by Norfolk Southern (between Chicago and Pittsburgh) or CSX (between Pittsburgh and Washington). Fortunately, Amtrak has a great mobile site and iPhone app which provide real-time status updates so you can enjoy downtown while waiting for the train.
If you're returning on a weekday and are willing to leave early, MARC is also an option. Trains leave at 5:51am and 6:56am.
Know any other car-free family trip destinations? Mention them in the comments.
Correction: The original version of this article spelled the name of the town incorrectly as "Harper's Ferry" in some places. The correct name has no apostrophe.
Update: The article mentions the lack of breakfast options downtown. The owner of the Town's Inn contacted us with the good news that a shuttered downtown restaurant, the Town's Pub and Eatery, has reopened with service from breakfast through dinner. I haven't tried it, but initial online reviews are positive.
We like to take the Amtrak line which leaves Union Station at 4:05 pm and arrives in Harpers Ferry at 5:16 pm
Comments
- Cyclists are special and do have their own rules
- M Street cycle track keeps improving, draws church anger
- O'Malley announces first projects using new gas tax money
- Can Loudoun grow while protecting its rural areas?
- ICC losing bus service in classic bait and switch
- Silver Spring mall could get massive facelift, new name
- WMATA launches "Short Trip" rail pass on SmarTrip











by Bossi on Aug 29, 2011 2:00 pm • link • report
by Aaron on Aug 29, 2011 2:19 pm • link • report
by Matt R on Aug 29, 2011 2:21 pm • link • report
by Matt R on Aug 29, 2011 2:21 pm • link • report
by Aaron on Aug 29, 2011 2:24 pm • link • report
Amtrak was slated to have roll on/off bicycle service on the Capitol Limited. I last checked with Amtrak in February and got this response:
As of this moment, no information is available on the introduction of Roll On/Off bicycle service in 2011 on the Capitol Limited Route between Washington DC and Pittsburgh. Please check back for further updates.
by ErikD on Aug 29, 2011 2:28 pm • link • report
by Steve D on Aug 29, 2011 2:44 pm • link • report
by sb on Aug 29, 2011 2:57 pm • link • report
by Pat on Aug 29, 2011 3:05 pm • link • report
by Mike Essig on Aug 29, 2011 3:07 pm • link • report
Every year I ask Santa for more and better train service.
by Michael on Aug 29, 2011 3:09 pm • link • report
It seems to me to be a no brainer to make the necessary updates to the cars used on that route to permit bikes. Since Harper's Ferry is an unstaffed station, you don't even have the option of checking your bike in a box. I did recently, however, find that there is a new shuttle that takes people AND bikes from the HI Hostel in DC to the HI Hostel in Harper's Ferry via Baltimore. It's 20 bucks from DC to HF, and 10 bucks from HF back to DC. It's not daily, but you could go up Saturday afternoon, bike 20 miles, camp along the canal and finish your ride on Sunday. Check it out here: http://www.hostelhiker.com/
by Drew on Aug 29, 2011 3:10 pm • link • report
I'll echo what a lot of other commentors want, roll-on, roll-off bike service. I would love to take a train up and ride back to Georgetown as a quick overnight trip. Are you listening Amtrak?
by Will on Aug 29, 2011 3:19 pm • link • report
by Miriam on Aug 29, 2011 3:21 pm • link • report
Amtrak also goes south-west of DC to a number of interesting points. Charlottesville has plenty going for it in a weekend. Staunton, a little further out, is also an interesting town with the Woodrow Wilson Library and American Shakespeare Theatre's full scale replica of Blackfriar's Theatre. Even further out, Amtrak serves Clifton Forge and White Sulphur Springs, located respectively adjacent to the Homestead and Greenbrier Resorts.
On the Maryland side, you can, as this post suggests, take a train along the Potomac. There are a few other cities along the rail line that are not serviced. You can take Greyhound to Hancock, MD, which isn't far from Berkeley Springs State Park, and nearby Cacapon State Park where you can stay while visiting the springs (maybe take a taxi?).
Also if you do take your bike to Harper's Ferry, you can visit Antietam Battlefield. There is a NPS campground on the canal between the battlefield and the town of HF (several miles to either) available for $10 or some free ones on the canal in the area that are not car accessible and are therefore free. Tubing on the Potomac is also a great summer activity in HF.
by Drew on Aug 29, 2011 3:27 pm • link • report
There's quite a few nice overnight or short (2-3 day) bike trips out of DC. And, coupled with a return by train/bus, even more. Not so sure how tough they'd be with a Burley.
by EZ on Aug 29, 2011 3:31 pm • link • report
by Tim on Aug 29, 2011 3:35 pm • link • report
VA Beach is not too bad, either, on either Megabus or Amtrak (have to get a connection for the last leg on the train, though). The stop is, sadly, not in a great, accessible location, but every time I've been there have been tons of taxis, etc. The bus works better for a normal weekend (a bit faster), the train is great for something a bit longer.
Also, Philadelphia is a great weekend trip via train.
by Elle on Aug 29, 2011 3:35 pm • link • report
by Drew on Aug 29, 2011 3:36 pm • link • report
Just don't try to bring the family pet with you on any of these vacations ... as I don't think Amtrak allows them ....
by Lance on Aug 29, 2011 3:39 pm • link • report
I want clarify about the difficulty in implementing roll-on service.
Baggage Car
The baggage cars Amtrak uses on most routes were built in the 1950s. The newest among them was built in 1955. In fact, Amtrak inherited them from the various railroads that operated before Amtrak came into being in 1971.
Now, thats not to say that Amtrak could not modify them with bike racks. But the cars are about to be replaced, so theres little incentive to spend a lot of money on them.
Currently, Amtrak is having new baggage cars built. They should begin to replace the older cars within the next 2 years. I believe that some of these cars may have bike racks installed from the get go.
Platforms
Unfortunately, the solution cannot be to just build a raised platform. That would not be cheap, since Amtrak has over 500 stations, most of which currently have low platforms.
And it is not possible anyway. On any route where Amtrak shares the track with freight trains, the platforms have to be low. The reason for this is because freight cars are wider than passenger cars. Since the freight railroads own the tracks, they get to say no to high platforms.
And theres another problem
The railcars
Amtrak operates several different types of passenger cars. For the purposes of this discussion, they can be divided into 2 categories: (1) High-Platform equipment and (2) Low-Platform equipment.
The high-platform equipment is capable of using a high platform (like the DC Metro or stations like the Amtrak station at New Carrollton, MD). These platforms are about 4 feet above the rail, and allow customers to walk (or roll) directly onto the train without stepping up.
Almost all of the high-platform equipment can also accommodate low-platforms. The Acela Express is the exception. It can only platform at high-platform stops. For the rest of the equipment, at a low-platform station, the same door is used as would be used at a high-platform station, but a staircase drops down. Passengers on the low platform (rougly even with the rails) have to climb 4 steps up into the car.
The second category, low-platform equipment can ONLY serve stations with low platforms. The Surfliner in California (which has roll-on service) is an example. Those trains have low platforms. The platform is even with the rail in height, and the door is a few inches above that, just one small step up. All of the cars that are low-platform only are double-decker trains. The pass through between cars is on the second level. It cant be on the lower level because the trucks (wheels) of the car are in the way.
The Capitol Limited uses Superliner equipment only capable of platforming at low-platform stations. But the baggage car is a high-platform piece of equipment. Amtrak does not expect riders to lift their bikes over their heads to place them in the baggage car.
The best solution would be to have a space in a Superliner car for bikes. But the problem is that the lower level is small, and is generally where the bathrooms are located and also where the mobility-impaired seating is located. There are some Superliner cars that have a baggage compartment in part of the lower level, but there are only a few of those cars, and theyre used on routes where a full baggage car is not used (meaning that the space is for checked baggage).
So, as you can see, there is no easy solution:
The Surfliner (and California) cars were purchased with money from California. California wanted bikes to be permitted, and since they were spending the money, they got to specify about bikes.
Amtrak is going to receive (in 3 years or so) new cars based on the Surfliner design for the Chicago-hub network.
For the high-level trains in low-level territory, there really is no easy solution. Bikes will either have to be carried up (in boxes, by baggage handlers) or new off-line stations (on sidings off the main line, like at Greenbelt, MD) will have to be built with high-platforms, where riders could roll bikes on.
by Matt Johnson on Aug 29, 2011 3:48 pm • link • report
by spookiness on Aug 29, 2011 3:51 pm • link • report
by Drew on Aug 29, 2011 4:03 pm • link • report
by BKDC on Aug 29, 2011 4:11 pm • link • report
and
http://www.harpersferryrafting.com/bike.htm
by Drew on Aug 29, 2011 4:14 pm • link • report
Yes. The 130 new cars (the Viewliner IIs) are single-level. They will not be replacing coaches or sleepers on the Capitol Limited. However, they will be replacing the Capitol Limited's baggage car.
by Matt Johnson on Aug 29, 2011 4:36 pm • link • report
by Miriam on Aug 29, 2011 4:42 pm • link • report
@Matt Johnson, good summary but the common terminology is to refer to the cars as the (bi-level) Superliners (which require low level platforms) which are used in the Mid-West and West and single level cars (which can use low or high level platforms except for the Acela as you noted). The Superliners can not operate north of DC on the NEC because of clearance of the catenary and tunnnels on the NEC.
by AlanF on Aug 29, 2011 4:52 pm • link • report
by Shipsa01 on Aug 29, 2011 4:58 pm • link • report
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13033320@N03/2785550226/
by Drew on Aug 29, 2011 5:00 pm • link • report
That rack would probably fit where the downstairs luggage rack (for large carry-on items) is on Superliner coaches. But it would necessitate removing that area, which is probably a non-starter.
Remember, the Surfliner is mainly for short trips, with plenty of people without luggage (like San Diego to Los Angeles). The Superliner fleet includes plenty of people with large suitcases traveling long distances (like Seattle to Chicago).
by Matt Johnson on Aug 29, 2011 5:05 pm • link • report
by tour guide on Aug 29, 2011 5:12 pm • link • report
There are Zipcars at UVA in Charlottesville. The closest one is not a long walk from the Corner or the train station. We used zipcar to get to Monticello last winter. Just make sure to book it ahead of time. The most convenient one fills up weeks ahead.
by Andrew D on Aug 29, 2011 5:17 pm • link • report
The Amtrak Norfolk will be extended NE Regionals, same as the two daily trains to Newport News (which will still run). The service will start with a single daily train, but the goal is to expand it to 3 trains a day to Norfolk.
by AlanF on Aug 29, 2011 5:21 pm • link • report
But - What did you do with your son during the long delays on the return trips? Did you have to wait at the platform all that time or were there signs indicating the delays?
by TJ on Aug 29, 2011 9:22 pm • link • report
by TJ on Aug 29, 2011 9:23 pm • link • report
by JMS on Aug 30, 2011 7:11 am • link • report
by Dave J on Aug 30, 2011 10:47 am • link • report
I certainly don't want to discourage anyone from taking the train for a weekend trip, but sometimes the choices presented wrt to becoming less autocentric are pretty stark. Carfree, rather than simply reducing the number of vehicles per household. Assuming car free means NEVER driving, rather than not owning a car but renting one for special occasions.
by AWalkerInTheCity on Aug 30, 2011 1:39 pm • link • report
by sb on Aug 30, 2011 5:03 pm • link • report
by Ralph on Aug 31, 2011 6:49 am • link • report
That's true about the trackwork. However because of it, Amtrak has been making an effort to get the Capitol out of Chicago on time. So far, since the trackwork started, the Capitol has missed the work window only once.
Also, if you're returning from Harpers Ferry on a Friday or Saturday, there is no work to interfere with the train.
by Matt Johnson on Aug 31, 2011 7:52 am • link • report
by rock_n_rent on Aug 31, 2011 8:07 am • link • report
It was wonderful, but - if we had it to do over again - we probably would have gotten off before dinner in southern Vermont, maybe Windsor - stayed at a local B&B or lodge - and picked up the southbound train late the next morning.
The lodges and B&B's will often pick you up at the train station.
They've suffered terribly with the flooding this past week, and will need all the help - and business - they can get to pull through.
by Mike S. on Aug 31, 2011 6:20 pm • link • report
I wonder if folks might have other suggestions of transit accessible camping; I haven't visited Greenbelt Park yet - anyone been there? In particular, anyone gotten there by bus / foot / bike? I can't imagine it would be as fun as Harper's Ferry, but I'm guessing it's at least an opportunity to make s'mores and tell ghost stories.
by Lucre on Sep 21, 2011 7:57 pm • link • report
Greenbelt Park's main entrance is off of Greenbelt Road just east of Kenilworth Avenue. You can get there on 2 bus routes: The Metrobus G13/G14/G16, which runs from Greenbelt Station to New Carrolllton Station and the Prince George's County TheBus route 16, which also runs between Greenbelt and New Carrollton.
Unfortunately, there is no bus service on Sundays. Greenbelt Metro is about 1 mile away, which is walkable/bikeable.
by Matt Johnson on Sep 22, 2011 8:45 am • link • report
Add a Comment