Posts about Logan Circle
History
Meet me down in Pipetown: DC's neighborhoods in 1877
By now, most Washingtonians have heard of Swampoodle, the historic Irish neighborhood that was destroyed by the construction of Union Station. But what about The Island? Pipetown? Bloody Hill and Bloodfield ("the ancient feudal ground of the southwest")?
These were all names of Washington, DC neighborhoods during the decades of the 1800s following the end of the Civil War.

Map of Washington as the city appeared in 1877 when the Washington Post was founded, with the old nicknames for various portions of the city. Photo from the Washington Post.
Post-war DC was a rough place. According to one government official interviewed in the Post in 1902, "Washington passed through its period of lawlessness and disorder fully as bad, if not worse, than that which prevailed in Cripple Creek, Colo. or Tombstone, Ariz."
Small fields of corn and cabbage gardens were scattered about everywhere, many of them within a stone's throw of the Capitol, while cows had the run of the town from Georgetown to Anacostia Creek, grazing on the pavements, breaking into front yards, disturbing the slumbers of the citizens by their incessant lowing, and making themselves generally obnoxious. I recollect there use to be a brick yard at Ninth and O streets northwest and not far distant was a cornfield inclosed [sic] by a stake and rider fence. ...The war had ended, leaving stranded in this city a vast horde of enfranchised slaves, discharged soldiers, and a cloud of riffraff, bummers, and camp followers... and their arrival soon made this city one of the most disorderly places in America. Fights, murders, stabbing, and shooting scrapes were of daily occurrence.
The neighborhoods with the most infamous conditions had nicknames that were never shown on any official plat. But the Washington Post put together the amazing map above on its 50th anniversary, to show the neighborhoods that existed when the paper was founded in 1877.
Hell's Bottom, a former "contraband camp" extending irregularly from 7th to 14th Streets NW, and from O Street to the Boundary (now Florida Avenue), was one of the most notorious sections of the city. Living conditions were poor and crime was high.
According to a Post article from 1897, some Hell's Bottom residents lived in shanties the size of a "hall-room," with roofs so low that an average person could only stand upright on one side. These homes, which could house up to 3 families, were of "the rudest possible construction, few having any sashes in the window aperture, a board shutter closing out the cold winds, light and ventilation together, when shut. The only salvation from suffocation lies in the gaping cracks existing round the doors and windows, without which many a family would doubtless be found dead in the morning of cold nights."
Keith Sutherland, an old Hell's Bottom inhabitant, said this about the neighborhood in a 1900 Post article:
"Money was scarce and whisky [sic] was cheapThe police were unable to control the crime and violence in Hell's Bottom, and so in 1891, the city refused to renew any of the neighborhood's liquor licenses. It was this act that finally led to the neighborhood's improvement.— a certain sort of whisky — and the combination resulted in giving the place the name which it held for so many years. The police force was small. There was no police court, and the magistrates before whom offenders were brought rarely fixed the penalty at more than $2. Crime and lawlessness grew terribly, and a man had to fight, whenever he went into the "Bottom."
Murder Bay: The area east of the White House across Pennsylvania Avenue was known for its brothels, gambling, and crime. It was sometimes called "Hooker's Department," after Civil War General Joseph Hooker, who hoped to concentrate the city's brothels in the area.

The "red light district" known as Murder Bay at the corner of C Street NW and 13th Street NW, April 1912. Griffin Veatch, a "night messenger" or child laborer who directed customers to brothels, is leaning against the tree at left. Photograph by Lewis W. Hine for the US National Child Labor Committee.
White Chapel: A dirty alley between 24th and 25th Streets, and M and N Streets, NW. During the 1880s, there was almost constant warfare between the residents of this area and the police.
Pipetown: East of 11th Street SE to the Anacostia River, this neighborhood was made famous by Pipetown Sandy (1905), John Philip Sousa's semi-autobiographical young adult novel about the neighborhood where he grew up. One Post article described Pipetown as "a community of extensive commons, of ash dumps, of tumble-down houses and shacks of nondescript architecture, a place where goats browsed among the tomato cans and the travelling fair pitched its weather-beaten tent."
Bloodfield: This neighborhood was "a vague name for the entire region around the James Creek Canal" (in today's SW near the Navy Yard), and one of the most dangerous and notorious slums in the city. Arrest attempts by police (who would only walk their beat in pairs) resulted in injury or worse to the officer or the resident:
Policeman Muller was attracted to the Shears house by the shooting, and when he arrived there he found Shears lying dead on the floor of the kitchen having been shot in the left temple. Curry was covered with blood from head to foot and gave evidence of having had a terrible struggle. His badge was smeared with blood and his coat was saturated with it.
Brothels, illegal speakeasies, and tough characters filled the neighborhood:
A steel corset stay, pointed and sharpened into a dangerous weapon, was used in an affray early yesterday evening...
Sergt. Daley, of the Fourth Precinct, was abroad in Bloodfield with his raiding clothes on last night, and, as a result, a number of alleged disorderly houses were closed up.
As the city and police force grew, the neighborhood calmed, but it retained its name up to the '20s.
Cowtown: A neighborhood located north of Hell's Bottom and west of 7th Street, NW.
The Island: This swath of land south of the Mall was so called because the canal cut it off from the rest of mainland DC.
I'd much rather live in Hell's Bottom than Logan Circle, wouldn't you?
Cross-posted at The Location.
Parking
Better parking for Logan Circle or bonanza for Kalorama?
Jack Evans has proposed a new parking restriction to limit parking in Logan Circle to residents. That could be a worthwhile policy, but will it help residents of Logan Circle find parking, or just give special privileges to residents of Georgetown and Kalorama? It depends on the details.
In the performance parking zones in Columbia Heights, Capitol Hill, the ballpark area, and soon H Street, only residents (and their guests) can park on one side of each block. This has been a successful element of performance parking zones that coupled the restrictions with market-rate meters.
In 2010, Jim Graham decided to offer neighborhoods in his ward the option to similarly restrict parking, but without a corresponding market-rate pricing component. The DC Council passed his bill, and now individual ANCs are deciding whether to opt in or not. Mount Pleasant's ANC 1D has decided not to join, in order to assist businesses in the neighborhood.
Now, Jack Evans seems to have jumped on the bandwagon. According to ANC commissioner Nick Barron,
Evans is proposing a pilot program for at least part of ANC 2F that would make one side of a street for Residential Parking Permit (RPP) holders only for at least six days a week. The opposite side of the street would remain unchanged, with two-hour time limits except for RPP holders. I believe street sweeping rules will stay in effect.This program could be a fine approach, though I'd prefer it to come as part of a performance parking package. Either way, though, to make it succeed requires one key element: Making sure it actually applies to Logan Circle residents and not, say, residents of Georgetown or Kalorama.Logan residents who would want to exempt their street from the pilot program would have an opportunity to do so, provided they supply a petition signed by a majority of residents on that block stating they do not want their block participating in the program. There would likely be a time limit on when such a petition needs to be provided.
If the program is successful in ANC 2F, it could be rolled out District wide.
Currently, all DC residential parking permits apply for an entire zone, which almost always corresponds with ward borders. There's no good reason for the zones to be so large; many other cities have smaller zones, and ward boundaries are fairly arbitrary, given that they need to move every 10 years to reflect changing populations even though the boundaries of communities don't shift.
Logan Circle is (now) at one edge of Ward 2. If this program also applies to all of Ward 2, it will amount to a major parking giveaway to people in Georgetown, Kalorama, Dupont and Foggy Bottom, at the expense of drivers living north of U Street (which is in Ward 1), Columbia Heights (also 1), Shaw (which is now in Ward 6), Mount Vernon Triangle (also 6), Bloomingdale and Truxton Circle (5), and other neighborhoods which are closer to Logan Circle than Georgetown and Kalorama.
In fact, Georgetown and Kalorama residents can already drive to Logan Circle and park near the Green Line all day with their Ward 2 stickers. This policy could exacerbate the practice as well.
The stated purpose of the RPP system is to help residents park relatively near their homes, not to give residents of certain neighborhoods special priority to park near a special set of other neighborhoods. If this program is to actually advance such a goal, it must apply to a smaller zone.
The new ANC 2F could form an appropriate such zone. Give new "Zone 2, subzone F" RPP stickers to drivers living in the 2F boundaries. Limit the one side of each street to those holding these stickers. To avoid hurting people who live right next to the boundary, DC could also give the permits to anyone living, say, within 500 feet of the zone boundary.
This policy may also reserve spaces for residents so well that the spaces aren't filling up on all blocks. In that case, as I suggested for H Street, the legislation should let DDOT offer the extra space to non-residents for a fee, and dedicate some of the money to local improvements that help local businesses.
That's cheap and easy to do with the new pay-by-phone systems. All DDOT would have to do is put up signs that say, "Reserved for holders of 2F permits; others pay by calling 800-xxx-xxxx or at parkmobile.com." The rates for this space should be high enough that it doesn't just fill up the blocks and make space too scarce for residents once again.
Finally, why 6 days a week? Presumably this excludes Sundays. But Sunday is one of the days parking is in demand in Logan Circle. Given all the churches, it's actually the day of most demand, but there's also demand to park for the restaurants and shops as well. If the policy is going into effect, it should apply all the time, as the similar restrictions in other neighborhoods do.
ANC 2F is hearing about Evans' plan at its meeting tonight, which starts at 7 pm at the Washington Plaza Hotel on Thomas Circle.
Development
In fringe suburbs, has economics trumped the appeal of new?
The recession and the burst of the housing bubble have stopped development in many fringe suburbs. With many urban neighborhoods on the rise, some suggest that fringe suburbs are on the decline. Has simple economics surpassed the appeal of "new" in the hinterlands?
There's been a lot of chatter around the blogosphere about Christopher Leinberger's New York Times op-ed that I think really hits the nail on the head when it comes to the issue of what's ahead for fringe suburbs.
Basically, the hypothesis presented is that fringe suburbs are headed downward, and I think this piece of evidence is really the most damning:
Many drivable-fringe house prices are now below replacement value, meaning the land under the house has no value and the sticks and bricks are worth less than they would cost to replace. This means there is no financial incentive to maintain the house; the next dollar invested will not be recouped upon resale. Many of these houses will be converted to rentals, which are rarely as well maintained as owner-occupied housing. Add the fact that the houses were built with cheap materials and methods to begin with, and you see why many fringe suburbs are turning into slums, with abandoned housing and rising crime.Leinberger goes on and cites several examples of urban neighborhoods that have transformed from slum to hip in recent history: Capitol Hill in Seattle; Virginia Highland in Atlanta; German Village in Columbus, Ohio; and Logan Circle in Washington.
I don't know much about Capitol Hill or Virginia Highland, but I do know something about Logan Circle and German Village. One very important (and I think non-trivial) quality that they share is that they both have a high quality, durable housing stock that has held up very well, given its age, all things considered.
When I think about what made cookie cutter houses in suburbs appealing to people, in addition to the square footage and the yards and the school systems, I really suspect that one of the things that people were drawn to was the absolute "newness" of everything. People love having new stuff The problem though, as Leinberger notes, is that fringe suburbs were literally built on the cheap. They may have looked nice initially, but the drywall they used to throw up houses in Prince William County is not the same as the brick they used to build rowhouses in Dupont Circle. At the time, the appliances they put into new suburban homes might have been nicer than what was in old urban houses, but appliances can easily be replaced, structures can't.
Around DC, a lot of old rowhouses have gone through the process of renovation At one point, the suburbs looked so much "nicer" because that's where the building was I was reminded of this when I saw this article in the Plain Dealer last month. The author makes the case that there's more demand for housing in downtown Cleveland than the market can keep up with. A lot of folks will use this as evidence of a downtown renaissance, I think it says that people are no longer afraid to live downtown (something that was true in Cleveland for many years) but I also suspect it has something to do with the quality of downtown housing.
While it seems true that downtown Cleveland is doing well, many other urban Cleveland neighborhoods are not doing well at all. The apartments and condos popping up downtown are all brand new, beautifully renovated spaces. The houses in Cleveland's urban neighborhoods, on the other hand, are much lower quality. Compared to Washington's rowhouses, they're downright terrible. I suspect that many of Cleveland's houses are also below replacement value. The only hope is to knock them down, and that's exactly what's happening.
When I studied home prices in Cleveland a few years ago (pdf), I found that while downtown was in fact the neighborhood in the city with the highest prices, there was nevertheless a positive relationship between home price and the distance from the city center. In other words, the farther from downtown you went, the higher the price of homes. It was "drive til you qualify" in reverse.
I think the future of suburbs as Leinberger imagines them is going to look like some of Cleveland's neighborhoods today - Hough, Mount Pleasant, Cudell Is it true to say that millennials and baby boomers have a taste for urban living? I think there is good evidence to support that theory, but it's clearly the case that they don't want to live just anywhere in the city. Nobody wants to live in a slum, and the type of homes that people want has to meet at least a certain threshold of quality.
In high-cost cities, like DC, that's not so hard to pull off. A $200,000 rowhouse rehab might be well worth the cost when you can turn around and sell the house for half a million or more. A similar job simply doesn't make any financial sense in a city like Cleveland. In fact, the Plain Dealer article above specifically says that developers aren't building in downtown Cleveland without government incentives because the rents are too low to support the kind of investment they need to make.
I think the more realistic assessment of suburbs and cities is that some suburbs will see a precipitous decline, some urban neighborhoods will experience a renaissance, and the degree to which each happens will be highly dependent on local market conditions. In other words, it will happen, but it won't be as clear cut as the magazine articles might lead you to believe.
Crossposted on Extraordinary Observations.
Public Spaces
DDOT selects Capital Bikeshare locations
DDOT has announced a preliminary set of locations for its 100 Capital Bikeshare stations (via TheWashCycle):
I'm glad 17th and Corcoran made the list. Are the ones near you in locations you might use?
They're relatively clustered toward downtown. That's probably the right decision, as bike sharing stations increase in value the more there are nearby. Creating areas with a high density of stations will maximize the usefulness of the initial investment.
Where stations are farther out, they should meet a specific travel need, like the ones at Tenleytown, Van Ness, and AU which would serve AU students getting to and from campus and the Metro. Ditto Georgetown University and Georgetown Law. Stations in Mount Pleasant and Adams Morgan will help residents there get to nearby Metros and visitors get to the local businesses.
All of DC's universities, including those mentioned plus Howard, GW and Catholic, could improve transportation for students even more by funding a couple stations elsewhere on their own campuses.
I'm a little surprised there isn't another station on the east side of Logan Circle, near Howard University, or right at the U Street or Petworth Metro. Of course, they had to prioritize and also had to find space. I'd also move the one at 18th and R to 18th and S to be closer to the commercial strip there, but perhaps there wasn't a suitable space, or a lot of people right at 18th and R said they'd use one there in the survey.
One seemed to get on the Mall, at 3rd in front of the Capitol, despite reported NPS opposition to stations. Maybe this is Architect of the Capitol land? There are also stations by L'Enfant Plaza and Smithsonian Metros, but the Park Service ought to be funding stations at the Washington Monument and the Lincoln, Jefferson, FDR, WWII, and Marine Corps memorials at the very least.
What are your reactions?
Update: There is one at the east entrance to U Street Metro. Google Maps does a bit of a disservice with the placement of the Metro station symbols, which misled a few commenters about whether bikes will be next to stations.
Update 2: DDOT has apparently been reading your comments and is listening. Stations have appeared at Howard University and Farragut Square, two conspicuous omissions early on. You can see some of the changes by comparing the above map with BeyondDC's screen capture of the central DC area earlier this morning.
Update 3: DDOT said that the map isn't final and they're still making adjustments.
Update 4: The final map is up. The one embedded above now reflects the official locations.
Public Spaces
This year, let's have a great Summer Streets
Now that spring is upon us, it's time to think about the summer. New York's Summer Streets program closed down 5 miles of Park Avenue on three consecutive August Saturdays and met with resounding success. DC should follow suit this summer with a similar program on a similarly important north-south route: 14th Street.
Summer Streets brought tens of thousands of walkers, bicyclists, rollerbladers, and more from around the city to enjoy the warm August weather. People relaxed along the route or traveled up and down its length.
Stations along the way featured dance classes for kids and adults, green food demonstrations, bike valet parking, martial arts demonstrations, city cycling classes, yoga and fitness events, and more.
DC held its own event last year, Feet in the Street, in Fort Dupont Park. DDOT did a nice job with the event, but it was in a relatively low-density location not particularly close to Metro. It also rained, which didn't help.
Park Avenue passes through some of the densest areas of New York (and the world). Hundreds of thousands of people live within a short walk and millions within an easy subway or bike ride. We don't have that, but by selecting a route through our densest and most transit-rich areas, a DC Summer Streets could likewise attract far more people.
An ideal route would extend along 14th Street from Franklin Park (at McPherson Square Metro) to Park Road in Columbia Heights.


Left: NYC Summer Streets route. Circles show station locations.
Right: Potential DC route. Balloons show potential station locations.
They are the same size in the images above, but this 14th Street route is only 2 miles compared to New York's 5 miles (plus 2 more miles for the Central Park loop which it connects to). Since our metropolitan area is about 38% the size of New York's, a Summer Streets/Feet in the Street of 40% the length seems appropriate.
The route runs from hotels downtown through the Logan Circle, U Street and Columbia Heights neighborhoods, some of DC's densest. 14th also has many stores along the entire route which could benefit from an intense concentration of foot traffic.
Stations could be located at Franklin Park, Thomas Circle, P Street, U Street, somewhere around Euclid Street, and finally in the center of Columbia Heights.
DC could close Thomas Circle, which cars can still traverse using the Massachusetts Avenue underpass. New York kept a number of major cross streets open for cross traffic. DC could do the same, such as K Street, Masschusetts Avenue (via the underpass), Rhode Island Avenue, Q and R Streets, U Street, Florida Avenue, Columbia and Harvard Streets, as well as I Street and Park Road at either end.
How about it?
Arts
Trompe-l'œil in alley
Trompe-l'œil (French for "trick the eye") is two-dimensional art that looks like it's three-dimensional. This well-executed example appears in the alley behind Logan Hardware. Its huge. I took this photo a few weeks back; hopefully its still there. That alley changes a lot. More images below.
History
Then and Now: Trew Motor/Studio Theatre
Then (left): The Trew Motor Co ca. 1920, located on the northeast corner of 14th and P Streets, NW.
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- Montgomery plans 160-mile, "gold standard" BRT system
- VDOT ignores own data, pushes widening I-66
- DC's parks are 5th best in the nation, says "Park Score"
- Bethesda gets new but terrible bike racks
- DC's divide need not be black and white
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